"Euphoria", Youthforia & Not Seeing Color

Kendrick Lamar’s release of his Drake diss titled “Euphoria” is causing a stir amongst fans of hip hop and pop culture. In the song, Kung Fu Kenny drags the actor-turned-rapper for cosplaying Blackness with hairdos, accents and altered body parts. In the same 48 hours, makeup brand Youthforia was dragged for their darkest foundation shade which, according to Cosmetic Chemist Javon Ford, lacks light, depth and any connection to reality. Makeup influencer Golloria has also called attention to Youthforia’s darkest foundation shade after doing a side-by-side application of black face paint and the company’s “deep neutral”, 600, on her skin. The comparison confirms that Youthforia got as close to the literal color black as they could. A few months prior, the influencer tried their darkest shade which fell into the medium tone range…and now this. Not only does this massive misstep, at best, highlight the company’s thoughtless participation in the beauty industry’s historical disregard for Black people, it shows that the shade wasn’t tested before its release. Where Youthforia thought they were “filling the gap”, they actually missed the mark completely and seemingly on purpose. In Kendrick’s “Euphoria”, he speaks to Drake’s embrace of Blackness through cornrows and cadences without ever speaking to causes impacting the Black community. With Drake and Youthforia making their “blackest”, most transactional and hyperbolic attempts at inclusion and celebration yet, here’s a bit more about the euphoric diss of not seeing color. 

You know the phrase and, if you’re Black, you know it all too well. For many a badge of honor, “not seeing color” is an extremely harmful way of handling issues that impact Black people, people of color and all marginalized folks. Youthforia took an honest review from Golloria and ran with it…to the depths of “here…is this dark enough?!” In her review of their newest and deepest shade, Golloria referred to it as “tar in a bottle”. Chemist Ford explains how the lack of light and depth in the foundation is what makes it appear black to the point of not matching any human’s skin tone. Ford compares the shade to models with some of the deepest skin tones we’ve seen and still the foundation does not match. Ironically, it matches the black background of one of the photos of the model that Ford shared. He stressed that if a person were actually the color black, we wouldn’t be able to see their features. And that because black is the absence of light, it will always look black whereas Black skin or hair of the deepest hues will appear brown in the light because they’re not actually black.

Now I’m not the Blackness police, but it seems K Dot is up for the task of patrolling what’s appreciation over appropriation. Lamar pokes at what Drake has broadcasted, through demonstrations of downness, as insecurity around his appearance. An alleged BBL for abs, comparisons to Benjamin-built baddies and the never ending try-on of Black features. It’s become a vicious cycle of convoluted and conflated identity that’s roped the Degrassi alum into half-a-million dollar hush handouts and degenerate Daddy descriptions. Lamar expresses hate towards this amalgamation of cosplay costumes that Drake has chosen to reuse, reduce and recycle over the last several years. He also threatens to take things further if Drake doesn’t stay in his lane. And while cyphers and disses require a threatening energy that warrants a similarly-brash response, makeup is more of a subtle game or so brands hope. 

Youthforia’s drop of the “deep neutral”, 600…it’s not even pandering, it’s passive aggressive dismissal. Where there are three medium to deep tones and five deep tones, one of which being 600 Tar,  there are over 10 light to medium tones available in their Date Night collection. Youthforia leans into not seeing color by creating a foundation for one that doesn’t exist. Not only does this massive misstep highlight the company’s thoughtless participation in the beauty industry’s historical disregard for Black people, it shows that the shade wasn’t tested before its release. It’s comparable to that of many makeup companies who’ve consciously put Black women last, but this time around, this brand is literally playing in our faces. 

Youthforia’s goal was to create a clean and sustainable brand that “acts like skincare…” Makeup lovers know how much of a dream it would be to be able to sleep in makeup without waking up to breakouts. And yet the brand’s deep neutral, 600 is a huge zit on the chin of inclusion in the beauty industry. Similarly, I’m sure Drake came into the game with intentions of keeping his nose clean, without leaving any dirty marks behind. However, if we place our focus on acting like skin(care) instead of taking care of those with the skin, the impact can fall a bit short. And still, somehow, a rebrand would put them on the right path towards equitable inclusion. When my fiance shared Kendrick’s diss with me, I thought, “how will Drake get past this?”

The only options I could think of is standing ten toes down in ignorance or admitting defeat and taking it as an opportunity to rebrand. When brands underserve, pander or drawl, we have the right to speak up about it. The plight of asking brands to expand their shade range has been a long and weary one that won’t be won by colorblind and mindless acts of aggression performed by cosmetic companies. Euphoria is described as a state of elation and reduced anxiety. Is that what customers are to feel when using deep neutral, 600? Who are Drake’s actions (and the lack thereof) meant to create this sensation for? In any case, one of my favorite lines from King Kunte on this diss track is “but don't tell no lie 'bout me and I won't tell truths 'bout you.” I think that lays the foundation for some makeup and musical truth telling - don’t you?